Anos de Surf – The first time I surfed I must have been 15 years old. 3 years ago I started surfing more regularly.
What do you like most about surfing? Being at sea. Break the routine and have time to look around. “Catch air”. The best part is the surf that ends with the sunset! The worries of a hectic day-to-day disappear and, suddenly, what matters is catching waves. Surfing teaches me to be patient and to wait – The same wave doesn’t come twice; there are more people surfing; evolution is not linear and is never the same, but it is always special.
Favorite song? Beatles, “In my life”
Dream trip? “Road trip” through West Africa
Competition or free surfing? Free surf
Favorite Surfer? Carissa Moore
What message do you leave for surfers or surf lovers? When I was in Liberia, the happiness of seeing the kids surfing was touching. The important thing was to be in the sea, the rest came as an addition… The surfing never disappointed… I would like people to remember that surfing is much more than the best wave to feed your own ego… It sucks when you “take away” that good wave, but all this, in the end, is just a great privilege.